If there’s one thing that fashion is obsessed with is time, the hardest thing is to look back & then realize where to go in the future. That is what Raf Simons showed us this morning at the Avenue d’Iena.
5 rooms full of flowers, from floor to ceiling, were the scenarios of one of the most anticipated shows in perhaps years. With strong colors & a calm but exciting background music, Raf delivered what we could call a “modern & purist rafraichissement of the Dior archives¨.
With a great amount of speculation & pressure from the editors, buyers & journalists that were craving something that would put the maison right back on track after 2 years of crazy mayhem due to “the Galliano case” & the tough critics towards the “Bill Gaytten era”.
It was not surprising (Raf, among others, was in the hypocenter of all the media frenzy that claimed that Marc J. was the one to take command of the historic maison) to see how well the clean, pure & modern aesthetic that Raf has went so well with the classic cuts, modest femininity & engaging beauty Christian Dior established at the end of World War II.
Many of Christian Dior iconic silhouettes were present in the collection, the New Look & the Bar jacket, along with the cigarette pant, a staple made famous by Yves Saint Laurent. “I wanted to be linked to the Christian Dior codes since the beginning, but make it dynamic, invigorating & modern” said Simons.
What really struck to me was inner communication that was happening between the almost architectural cuts, the beautiful & intricate beading & detailing & the perfect harmony the textures sung with the delicate selection of fabrics. With this show done in just 3 months, Raf Simons demonstrated how to take the past into the future, always maintaining the austere beauty & feminine individuality that takes him & the house of Dior apart from all the other authorities in the "parisienne ambiance de la mode".
The concept of moving on & taking it to the next level was shown in so many ways, a collection that can only be called as a homage to the past & a positive start of this co-relationship between Raf his new job just ensures that this chapter in fashion history was written to be successful, the only thing we have to do is to wait until the page is turned into the next one, a chapter were the woman of today & yesterday plays the starring role in the middle of this so called frowziness.
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I love how these gowns are so true to the core of what Dior is but still appeal to what is current in fashion with surf-esque prints, neon colors & Christopher Kane cosmic ambivalence, tie-dye can still be considered a trend.
Note: can you notice how the theatricality & dramatics are still printed in the clothes? This time through color, detailing, low back cleavages & structural & perennial proportions.